Friday, 14 October 2016

7 LOOKS WE LOVED FROM THE FIRST DAY OF MOSCOW FASHION WEEK



After tackling the spring 2017 shows in New York, London and Milan and Paris, we've kept the fashion train rolling all the way through to Moscow, where the 33rd season of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Russia (#MBFWRussia) is currently underway in the nation's capital.
The finale of Dimaneu's spring 2017 runway show. Photo: MBFW Russia
The finale of Dimaneu's spring 2017 runway show.
Photo: MBFW Russia

Read on for the looks that caught our attention on the first day of shows, and stay tuned for more until the event wraps up on Tuesday.

HARD 2.0
A look from Hard 2.0's spring 2017 collection. Photo: MBFW Russia
A look from Hard 2.0's spring 2017 collection.
Photo: MBFW Russia


From the students of the Moscow-based Design School of Higher School of Economics, Hard 2.0's looks were decidedly scholarly, taking creative cues from the fashion ecosystem as it stands today. Slinky, metallic slip dresses — like the piece pictured above — were paired with athleisure-appropriate sneakers. Oversize shoulder bags had terms like "Vetements" printed across in giant script and nearly every model came down the runway with a Hard 2.0 beanie. If this is what the cool kids of Moscow are wearing, it's quite similar to what you might find in the design studios of any given art school in New York City.

DIMANEU
A look from Dimaneu's spring 2017 collection. Photo: MBFW Russia
A look from Dimaneu's spring 2017 collection.
Photo: MBFW Russia


Dimaneu designer Dima Neu drew an enormous crowd for one of the most dramatic runway shows I've ever seen. His theatrics are more than warranted, however: As the winner of the Russia equivalent of "Project Runway," Neu is regarded as one of the buzziest designers working in Moscow today and his edgy, urban aesthetic is well-recognized by the community at large. This season, he adopted a bird theme: Many pieces — including the structured shirt dress, pictured above — were adorned with bird embellishments and prints, while a large bird was projected against a screen behind the runway.
A look from Dimaneu's spring 2017 collection. Photo: MBFW Russia
 look from Dimaneu's spring 2017 collection.
Photo: MBFW Russia


If tracksuits are back in business, this gauzy, cotton candy-colored Dimaneu set just shot to the very top of our wish list. Where the metallic jacket was adorned with sequins (and unzipped to showcase an oh-so-trendy off-the-shoulder neckline), the pants were light and dangerously sheer — the opposite of what we've come to expect from the otherwise sporty, utilitarian tracksuit. 

ARTEM SHUMOV
A look from Artem Shumov's spring 2017 collection. Photo: MBFW Russia
A look from Artem Shumov's spring 2017 collection.
Photo: MBFW Russia


As one of the few Russian designers working exclusively for men, St. Petersburg-based designer Artem Noise exercises a more simplistic approach than many of his counterparts. Suits, backpacks, socks and patch-adorned shoes weren't nearly as out-there as the wigs that complemented each look. My favorite suit, pictured above, was printed with morse code-like stitches and accented with peachy socks and a bright blue backpack; yes, men are certainly permitted to have a little fun with their clothing and accessories.



VASSA&CO
A look from Vassa&Co's spring 2017 collection. Photo: MBFW Russia
A look from Vassa&Co's spring 2017 collection.
Photo: MBFW Russia


A true prêt-a-porter label, Vassa&Co is headed by Elena Vassa, who prioritizes the runway just as much as the brand's many brick-and-mortar locations in Moscow, St. Petersburg and several other smaller cities such as Orenburg, Irkutsk and Astrakhan. As such, her pieces are incredibly sharp, commercial and finely crafted, with dresses, blouses and trousers adhering to a certain workwear aesthetic. However, this black, saint-y slip dress stood out to me from the rest of the collection; with its deep V-neck and double slits by the ankles, this is a piece that would retail incredibly well in the U.S.
A look from Vassa&Co's spring 2017 collection. Photo: MBFW Russia
A look from Vassa&Co's spring 2017 collection.
Photo: MBFW Russia


I love a good blazer, especially one that is long enough to be styled without pants; meanwhile, the starched, overly long sleeves were a zippy sartorial touch. (How very New York.)

IVKA
A look from Ivka's spring 2017 collection. Photo: MBFW Russia
A look from Ivka's spring 2017 collection.
 Photo: MBFW Russia


Placing an emphasis on androgyny and minimalism, Ivka may have been one of the most sophisticated shows of the day, and that's even without taking the clothes into consideration. Models wore Pat McGrath-inspired glitter lips and walked to a haunting soundtrack that made us think that, sure, Halloween could be coming a little early this year. But the clothes were beautiful in all their eccentricities: I especially loved the flowing tops worn with similarly oversize trousers and heavy, clomp-y boots. In the look above, we see that Ivka has mastered pattern and print play; just look at how the stripes of the sleeves intersect with the bodice.

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